Ships, Crescents and Kloster Blocks

 

In this embroidery you will recognise the ship motifs from the first project; this time in a slightly different form. These, as well as the small crescents of counted satin stitch, are stitched in the same manner as before.

In addition another very important element of Hardanger embroidery is introduced - the Kloster block.

 

Click here for the full size Chart

In most forms of this technique, and throughout this book, the Kloster block consists of five counted satin stitches taken over four threads of the fabric.

Kloster blocks form the outlines of motifs that have cut areas in Hardanger embroidery. They serve to hold the threads of the uncut fabric in place and are more efficient at this purpose than it might seem.

It is important that the stitches forming the Kloster blocks are always taken down into the area that is going to be cut. Think of them as a set of `teeth' biting into the area as, although they themselves do not, of course, actually cut the fabric, you will be cutting against them later. By thinking this way you will always ensure that there are no loose stitches at the corners or diagonal passes across from one block to another at the back of the work. In fact by working in the order shown you can rest in the knowledge that the reverse side of the embroidery will be looking after itself.

 

To work this design you will need... White 22 count Hardanger fabric 6 ins (15 cms) square. Tapestry needle size 22 One skein of white Pearl cotton no 5.

Instructions

1. Find the centre of the fabric by lightly folding it in half each way.

2. To work the first Kloster block you will need to bring your needle up in a position six fabric threads above and two to the right of centre. You can use a waste knot to fasten on but in this case it will be necessary to make this far enough away from the starting point so that, when the knot is cut away, the thread can be re-threaded into the needle to fasten off securely through the stitches at the back of the work.

3. Work the central Kloster block.

4. Continue to work the other Kloster blocks (follow the sequence carefully) and all the counted satin stitch motifs.

 

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Tips for neat work

Always complete all surface stitching before making any cuts in the fabric.

Always be sure to have sufficient thread to complete a block of five stitches. Do not change thread in the middle of a block. Fasten threads on and off through the `channels' that form at the back of the work.

Cut as close to the embroidery threads as you dare but do not worry if there are small tufts of thread left. In practice these will tend to disappear into the blocks as the embroidery is handled and can always be trimmed later with the points of your scissors if you wish.

 

Cutting threads

This is always rather a traumatic step the first time you take it! Just remember that you are actually far more likely to do it right than wrong.

With Kloster blocks of the size used in this book, all cuts are of four fabric threads and are always taken against the `teeth' of a block, never alongside the length of a stitch. The red lines on the diagram show where the cuts should be taken.

Cut the five holes within the Kloster blocks as shown on the main chart and the embroidery is complete. Press and finish as for the first project.

 

Mounting into cards

Place the embroidery face up on a clean surface and test the position of the card over it. Open out the card and either run a trail of craft glue or place double sided sticky tape around the inside of the window. Turn the card over, check that it is the right way round and gently lower it into position on the embroidery. Inside the flap that will fold behind the window, run a trail of glue or double sided sticky tape around the edge and fold into place.

The cards used in these three projects have a circular aperture just over 3 ins (8 cms) in diameter and are from The Sewing Basket, 4 Edinburgh Road, Formby, Liverpool, Merseyside L37 6EP.

 

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